The Nissan Skyline R33 GT-R is often regarded as the black sheep of the GT-R range. It didn’t have the same impact as the R32 GT-R, wasn’t as well loved as the R34, and was of course totally outclassed by the R35 GT-R. However, if you are looking to become part of the Nissan GT-R family, the R33 GT-R may be the best option for you.
We have put together a Nissan GT-R R33 buyer’s guide for those who are looking at this unsung hero of the JDM world. There is a lot of information to cover about buying a Nissan GT-R R33, from what to look for to how much you should pay and where to buy one. Nissan GT-R R33 prices are creeping up and finding a good example is becoming more and more difficult.
Before we dive into the buyer’s guide, let’s look at the history and specifications of the GT-R R33. If you already know all there is to know about the history and specs, feel free to skip on ahead to the buyer’s guide section of this article.
The History & Specifications of the Nissan Skyline GT-R R33
The first Nissan Skyline GT-R was launched in 1969, but it wasn’t until the GT-R R32 launched that the car got its reputation as a world beater. For the fourth generation R33 model, Nissan kept the same formula for success.
Unfortunately, when the R33 GT-R launched in 1995 many were underwhelmed by its specifications. The twin-turbocharged RB26 2.6-litre inline six was pretty much the same as the R32, expect for a couple of turbos manufactured with ceramic internals. The same manual gearbox was used, but with slightly stronger syncros.
Power remained unchanged at 276bhp, although torque was slightly higher at 271lb ft. Despite the small changes, the R33 GT-R could go from 0-62mph 0.2 seconds quicker than its predecessor.
It was widely known that the RB26 engine in the R33 GT-R could handle much higher power loads, but due to the Japanese gentlemen’s agreement, power was limited to 276bhp. The reason for limiting power figures in Japanese cars to 276bhp was to satisfy the safety concerns of the Japan Automobile Manufacturers Association in the 1980’s and 90’s.
While engine performance stayed roughly the same, Nissan did make a few changes to correct problems that the R32 suffered from. Nissan installed a new wider oil pump drive collar as the old one tended to fail in higher power applications.
As Nissan’s engineers couldn’t do much to the engine, they turned to other parts of the car to improve performance. On the outside of the car, new side skirts, a rear-wing and a airdam reduced the drag coefficient from 0.4 to 0.35. This could be cancelled out however with the four-way adjustable rear wing, increasing downforce leads to higher levels of drag.
The suspension system utilised a new two-arm design for the front upper multi-link unit, and there was also more travel at the rear.
Additionally, Nissan developed a more rigid structure beneath the slipperier body. There were front and rear braces that held the suspension strut towers together, stronger sills and a stiffening panel was fitted behind the rear seats. However, all this extra strengthening lead to a weight gain of around 100kg compared to the R32 GT-R. The combination of the same power output and extra weight lead to less enthusiasm for the R33 GT-R.
With the increase in weight more stopping power was required. Nissan fitted Brembo brakes and ventilated discs measuring 324mm at the front and 300mm at the rear. This was an increase of 28mm and 3mm when compared to the R32 GT-R. These were covered by 9 x 17in rims with 245/45 R17 tyres fitted as standard.
Nissan updated the four-wheel drive (ATTESA E-TS) system to take advantage of the increase in rubber width. They also improved the four-wheel steering (Super HICAS) system, which together made the R33 GT-R perform better on rougher roads.
The Super HICAS system was developed to reduce understeer. Nissan used a small steering rack acting on the back wheels to increase the rate of turn-in by momentarily turning out of the corner and then turning back to the same direction as the front wheels.
This meant that the R33 GT-R’s rear end moves out, increasing the yaw rate and allowing the car to turn more quickly. Once the back has moved out, the rear wheels turn in the same direction as the front wheels to stabilise the vehicle. During this movement, the rear wheels only turn half a degree, which is enough to make a difference.
Nissan’s high-tech ATTESA system was developed to improve performance in varying road conditions. Most four-wheel drive systems use a 50:50 or 60:40 split, but the GT-R’s system was different. The R33 GT-R’s four-wheel drive system sends 100 per cent of its power through the rear wheels most of the time. This means that the front wheels are free to steer under most conditions, with power only going to them when necessary. Sensors then monitor individual wheel rotation and decide where to send power and in what proportion.
Did Nissan Produce Any Other Versions of the R33 GT-R?
As the R32 GT-R V-Spec was such a success, Nissan released a higher performance, more expensive model of the R33 GT-R at launch. It featured improved suspension with stiffer springs and damper rates. Additionally, the car was fitted with a ‘Pro’ version of the ATTESA four-wheel drive system that included an active limited-slip differential. These cars were sold for around £50,000 each and they also featured special 17-inch alloys.
In addition to the standard and the V-Spec, Nissan released the R33 GT-R V-Spec N1. Changes were similar to the ones made in the R32 GT-R N1. The ABS system, air conditioning, sound system, boot carpet and rear wiper were removed to save weight. This car was designed for Japanese domestic racing and featured an updated N1 R33 RB26 engine.
The following year in 1996 Nissan released the LM Limited R33 GT-R. This car was launched to commemorate the GT-R coming home in tenth overall at the 1995 Le Mans race. Nissan offered the car in Champion Blue only and it featured the N1’s bonnet and front bumper ducts. There was also a carbon fibre ear wing and a “GT-R Skyline” logo under a checkered flag was placed under the C-pillars.
Nissan produced a total of 188 LM R33 GT-Rs, 86 GT-R LMs and 102 V-Spec LMs. The tenth place finish in the 24 Hours of Le Mans was remarkable as the car was essentially running the same RB26 motor and was up against supercars of that time period.
What About the Nismo 400R?
The ultimate version of the R33 GT-R was launched in 1997 and was labelled the Nismo 400R R33 GT-R. Only 44 of these cars were produced before production ended in 1998.
Overall development and planning of the 400R was done by Nismo (Nissan Motorsports International). The car benefited from a range of motorsport-derived upgrades, with the engine being developed and produced by REINIK.
The RBX-GT2 engine in the 400R was essentially a bored and stroked RB26DETT power unit found in the standard GT-R. It featured a 77.7mm stroke crankshaft (73.7mm stock) and forged 87mm pistons (86mm cast stock). Additionally, the engine received upgraded rods, high lift camshafts, polished ports, an upgraded oil system, larger exhaust manifolds and higher output turbochargers.
Nismo developed an upgraded exhaust system to go along with the changes to the engine, with titanium being used from the catalytic converter back. There was also a new intercooler, air-cooled oil cooler and a twin-plate clutch.
The result of all these changes was a significant increase in power. The 400R produced an impressive 400bhp and 346lb ft of torque, which meant the car could now punch its way from 0-62mph in as little as four seconds and could go onto a top speed of 186mph. Turning up the boost could easily net a 100hp gain over the standard 400R.
Nismo didn’t stop at the engine however. They also retuned the suspension with stiffer bushes, new Bilstein dampers, a 30mm drop in ride height and more aggressive spring rates. At the end of the 50mm wider track were white, forged, lightweight three-piece alloy wheels.
The 400R received aerodynamic updates over the standard car, such as wider bumpers, side skirts, a new front bumper with big air intakes and a new rear bumper. Nismo redesigned the bonnet and rear spoiler, manufacturing them from carbon fibre.
Totoal Production Figures for the Nissan GT-R R33
- GT-R (Series 1) – 5050
- V·Spec (Series 1) – 4095
- Unknown (Series 1) – 14 (Pre-production or early cars including GT-R, V·Spec and V·Spec N1).
- GT-R (Series 2) – 2291
- V·Spec (Series 2) – 1203
- LM – 188 (86 GT-R LM, 102 V·Spec LM)
- GT-R (Series 3) – 1958
- V·Spec (Series 3) – 1270
- Autech GT-R – 416
- N1 – 86 (Series 1 = 55, Series 2 = 21, Series 3 = 10)
- UK V·Spec – 103
- 400R – 44
In total 16,674 fourth generation R33 GT-Rs were produced. Production ended in 1998, with the car’s successor the R34 GT-R launching in 1999.
Nissan Skyline GT-R R33 Buyer’s Guide
Now that we have gone through the history and specifications of the R33 GT-R, it is time to look at buying one. While the R33 GT-R is getting a bit long in the tooth, there are still good examples to be found.
However, a number of cars will have significant miles on them and it is important that they are maintained correctly. Many R33 GT-Rs have also been modified, so you need to decide whether you want a completely stock standard model or one that has a few changes.
Beware of any imposter GT-Rs. What we mean by this is there are a number of normally-aspirated two and four-wheel drive GT-S Skylines, and single-turbo GTS-25t models that have been fitted out to look like full-blown GT-Rs.
Below we have listed some things you need to check out and be wary off when purchasing a Nissan Skyline GT-R R33.
The RB26 engine found in the R33 GT-R is pretty robust. Apart from some cars getting up there in the miles, you shouldn’t find too many problems with the engine. However, proper maintenance is a biggie and you should always ask to see a car’s service history. If the seller can’t provide any service history, alarm bells should be ringing in your head.
Oil changes using top-quality lubricants and genuine Nissan oil filters are a must for a healthy engine. There are not any good Skyline specialists out there, so don’t worry too much if the car has been worked on by somebody else. As long as the car has been looked after and worked on by someone who knows Skylines, you shouldn’t have too many problems.
Over-revving of the engine can cause crank trouble to develop. Additionally, if the boost is turned up too high it can cause trouble with the turbochargers. You should see about 11 to 12 psi peak from the turbochargers.
The exhaust wheel in the turbos is made from ceramic that is bonded onto a steel shaft that also forms as the compressor on the inlet side. The ceramic wheels can break and shear off if too much boost is run, which will cause damage and costly repairs.
Services should be around every 6,000 miles or so, with major ones occurring at double that. Also watch for any modifications and see if they have been fitted correctly.
The original exhaust fitted to the R33 GT-R is pretty restricted, so don’t be alarmed if this is not stock. An aftermarket exhaust doesn’t necessarily mean the car has been owned by a boy racer, just check to see if the seller has the original. Additionally, you may want to check that the car still has its catalytic converter. If not, ask the seller as they can be expensive to replace.
There is not much to worry about when it comes to the R33 GT-R’s five-speed gearbox, however fourth and fifth gear synchro’s can get pretty messy by gear changes at higher rpms. If possible, take the car out for a test drive and get it above 5,000rpm. Change quickly between fourth and fifth, and if it grinds it probably means the synchro’s are past it.
Note: always check with the owner before you do this and do it on a safe piece of road.
Any graunching or grinding of the gearbox can be expensive to fix. This is because the gearbox will need to be removed from the car, stripped, rebuilt and then installed again. The problem can rear its ugly head shortly after a repair as well, so you are better of changing your driving style and slow down your gear changes.
Check when the last time the gearbox oil was changed and make sure it has been done regularly. Regular oil changes can help keep the transmission working correctly, which could reduce the need for a major overhaul.
Suspension, Steering and Brakes
The R33 GT-R has pretty good brakes straight from the factory, but the Brembo pads and discs are expensive to replace. Check the pads to see how much life they have left. This will help you determine if they need to be replaced as soon as you get the car home, or in the future. Also check the discs for scoring or cracking as this could be expensive to fix. If you notice any problems, get the owner to get them replaced or try and get some money knocked off.
The car should brake straight and true when you take it out for a test drive. In addition to this you should also check for any juddering or wobbling from the brakes. Juddering could be a sign that the car has experienced some track use or has been driven particularly hard.
The V-Spec GT-R’s ride will be slightly harder than the standard model thanks to its stiffer suspension setup. Some owners may have installed even stiffer suspension for track days, but we recommend you stick with the standard suspension for regular road use.
When you take the car out for a test drive, check how hard the ride is. Some R33 GT-Rs out of Japan have been fitted with fancy damper kits that will make driving on the road a pain. You can still find original Nissan parts, so if you want to switch back to stock it is possible.
While the R33 GT-R’s suspension system has no real weakness, the suspension bushes are likely to be worn out and should be replaced. Shocks and springs will eventually wear out as well, but these can travel many miles before needing to be replaced.
Many owners will have changed the rims for better looking ones, but the original 17-inch ones are still perfectly fine. If you see cheap tyres, you should be cautious. The R33 GT-R deserves some good rubber to get the best performance out of it. Cheap tyres may be a sign that the owner has skimped out on other areas as well.
Just like many other Japanese cars, the R33 GT-R’s electronics are fairly robust and bullet proof. Stock cars shouldn’t have too many problems if any at all, but any cars that have been modified may have a few gremlins lurking under the surface. Make sure you check any items that have been added or swapped – like the stereo system or engine electronics.
Check to see if the car has an alarm system as insurance will be more expensive without one. If the car does not have one you can try and use this as a bargaining point. Alarms are fairly easy to install so it isn’t a big problem.
Body and Exterior
While corrosion and rust isn’t a significant problem for the R33 GT-R, you should thoroughly inspect the bodywork. Any signs of rust could mean major problems down the track, so it is important to check. Any cars with significant problems should be avoided as there are plenty of good examples out there.
You will almost certainly see paint chips on higher-mileage models and take a look at the windscreen to check for any cracks or chips. Once again it is not a major problem, but can be used as a bargaining point to get the price down.
While the R33 GT-R is a bit more expensive than your standard run-of-the-mill Japanese sports car, many did make their way into the hands of people with more driving enthusiasm than skill. Always check for any crash damage and look for any parts that may have been replaced. The R33 GT-R had pretty tight fitting panel gaps, so anything that looks out may be a sign of a crash. Additionally, if you see in rippling in the paint or mismatched colouring it is a good sign that the car has been resprayed.
The service history should tell you about any previous work and you can use it to ascertain whether the car has been in a crash. If you are looking at Japanese imports, it is pretty much impossible to find out the history of the car unless the seller includes it.
Use a magnet over the steel sections of the car to check for any repairs and remember that any damage to the frame of the car is permanent.
There is not much to the GT-R’s interior but as they are starting get a bit long in the tooth, expect some wear and tear. You may find that the seats are ripped or in poor condition, and there will probably be wear on other trim items.
Lower mileage cars will usually be in better condition interior-wise, but don’t count on it. Seats and other trim items can be replaced, but use them as a bargaining point. You may always find that items like the steering wheel, gear shifter and seats may have been changed for aftermarket ones. If this is the case, ask the seller if they have the originals on hand.
If you are looking at a R33 GT-R, always check to see if the owner has the service history. The service history will give you a good idea of how the car has been treated over its life. It will also tell you important information like how often the car has been serviced and whether there have been any significant repairs.
We also recommend asking the owner directly about any work done on the car, as some of it may not be in the service history. In addition to this, you should ask how the car has been driven and whether it has been on any track days in the past.
Fluid Information for The Nissan Skyline R33 GT-R
|Engine Oil||7.5 – 30 (10-30 for a street car, 15-50 on a track car)||4.5 litres|
|Oil Filter||OEM 15208-60U00 , Fram PH3682 ,OEM(R34, smaller filter) 15208-9E000|
|Cooling System||Approximately 9 litres.|
|Front Differential (F160)||GL5 85-90||1 litre – (1 quart)|
|Transmission fluid||Don’t not fill through the gear shifter. Through the gear shifter is the transfer case GL4 75-90||4.1 litres (4.3 quarts)|
|Transfer Case||Nissan Automatic Fluid Type D||1.8 litres (1.9 quarts)|
|Rear Differential(R200)||LSD GL5 80-90||1.5 litres(1.5 quarts)|
Should You Buy a Nissan GT-R R33 with Modifications?
A large number of R33 GT-Rs have been modified to some extent and it can be hard to find a completely stock standard model. Some of these modifications may be relatively minor while some can be quite large. Modified cars can be plagued with problems and in some cases the owners may have completely ruined the original characteristics of the car.
Modified R33 GT-Rs should be gone over with a fine-tooth comb, to check for any potential problems. While the R33 can be modified relatively easily, there are many cowboys out there that have done a poor job. Always check that the work has been done correctly with the appropriate paperwork for them. You should also check that any modifications are legal, especially if you are importing a car from another country.
Where to Buy a Nissan Skyline GT-R R33?
With around 17,000 units produced, the R33 GT-R is a fairly rare care and it is becoming difficult to find good condition examples. The good news is that there are plenty of different places to look from private sellers, to dealers and even foreign countries. We are going to tell you everything you need to know about where to buy a Nissan GT-R R33 below.
Find a Nissan GT-R R33 for Sale Locally or Domestically
The first port of call is going to be in your own city of country. Looking for GT-Rs for sale that are close to you will let you test drive them before buying. Test driving a GT-R or any car for that matter is the best way to work out if it is a suitable purchase. You can ask the seller questions directly and will be able to really scrutinise the vehicle. However, depending on where you live it may be challenging to find a suitable model that is priced well for you.
Prices can vary quite a bit, especially if you are looking at multiple markets. In our local market of New Zealand, we found a number of R33 GT-Rs for sale from $35,000 to nearly $100,000. Additionally, something like a 400R is going to be significantly more expensive than a standard R33 GT-R. Modified GT-Rs may also be more or less expensive and expect to pay a premium for a good condition, low mileage example.
Unless you see the perfect car immediately, we recommend that you take your time when purchasing a GT-R. Cars will come and go, but rushing into buying any old GT-R can lead to problems down the road. However, remember that good condition cars that are in stock standard condition will often be snapped up quickly.
Another benefit of looking at a GT-R in your local area is that you will be able to take the car to a mechanic or specialist. They will be able to do a full run down of the car and check to see if there are any problems with it. If the owner is reticent for you to do this, you should take this as a warning sign and proceed with caution. They may have a perfectly good reason, but they may also be trying to hide something.
Purchasing a GT-R locally will also save you the hassles and troubles of importing one yourself, and the costs associated with that.
Where to Find a Nissan GT-R R33 for Sale?
There are a range of different places and websites where you can find Nissan GT-Rs for sale:
Websites such as Piston Heads, eBay and TradeMe (New Zealand’s version of eBay) are all excellent places to start your hunt for the perfect GT-R. There is usually a range of different cars available from dealers, private sellers and importers. They are also a great way to get a general idea of what price you will be paying for a GT-R.
Dealers and Specialist Importers
Most dealers and importers have their own websites and many of them advertise their stock on websites like the above. Dealers can often be more expensive than private sellers, but you may get better after sales support. Private importers will be able to help you find a car that meets your requirements and do all the tricky importing for you.
Yes, websites such as Facebook, Reddit and Instagram can be used to find cars for sale. Put up a post or join one of the many enthusiast groups on Facebook to find the car of your dreams. While it can be a bit of a minefield, you may just get yourself a great deal.
Looking for a Nissan or GT-R owners club can be a great way to find a good buy. The members in these clubs are often enthusiasts themselves and will tend to look after their cars well. Additionally, if no one in the group is selling their cars, they may be able to point you in the direction of somebody who is.
Contacts or Events
Asking your friends or acquaintances if they know of any GT-Rs for sale is a great option. Additionally, we recommend heading to a local car meet or event to see if anyone has anything for sale.
Import a Nissan GT-R R33
While we always recommend that you start looking for a Nissan GT-R in your local market, sometimes, it may be better to look overseas. The Nissan GT-R R33 was sold in a range of different countries across the world, so you can find them in most places. However, we recommend that you start your search in the car’s home country, Japan.
Japan is well known for exporting used motor vehicles as owning an older car there can be very expensive. You should be able to find plenty of R33 GT-Rs for sale in Japan. Some of these cars will be in excellent condition, while some will be ticking-time bombs.
Additionally, Japan has a very large enthusiast market, which means you should be able to find anything from stock standard models to completely modified, fire-breathing machines.
How to Import a Nissan Skyline GT-R R33?
Check The Internet
Your first port of call when importing a car is to check the internet. There are loads of different websites and auction houses that export used Japanese cars worldwide, so we recommend starting with these. Most websites will let you search via the price, year, features and even the condition (we will talk a bit more about that further on).
Despite being excellent places to find cars to import, you do need to be careful. Always check out the seller, website and the company behind it to make sure they are safe to use. Look up any reviews or feedback and don’t be hasty with a purchase. We have listed some examples of Japanese car export websites below:
Find an Importer
Doing all the importing yourself can be a bit of a nightmare, so we suggest that you find a local importer or company that can give you access to Japanese auction houses. You can work with them to find a suitable vehicle and they will be able to put a bid in for you. You can read more about this in our “How to import a car from Japan” guide.
Important Facts About Importing a Nissan GT-R R33 from Japan
Importing a car can be a bit of a daunting process and the fact that you can’t usually view the car first makes it even more scary. How do you know if the car has been crashed? What will the condition be like?
The risk of importing a car is much higher than purchasing one locally, and if you are not care you can wind up with a lemon. Private importers and dealerships often snatch up the best cars quickly as they are always in contact with their Japanese agents. Despite this, it is still possible to find good examples.
The Japanese Grading System
Pretty much all Japanese auction houses and car export companies get their cars in the exact same way. The difference is how much information they are willing to provide with the car and whether or not they are willing to be economical with the truth.
An auction check sheet will be provided that tells you almost all the information you need to know about the car. This check sheet is your guide and if a company or website is not willing to give you a translated version, you should take this as a sign they are trying to hide something from you. The other option is to find a Japanese translator who can go through the check sheet with you.
There is a lot of information contained on the check sheet, so it can be a bit overwhelming when you first look at them. However, the main thing you should be looking for initially is the grade. The grade will give you a rough idea of the overall condition of the car and whether or not the car has been looked after well.
While the grade is incredibly useful, you should not rely on it fully. This is because the same grade of car can vary condition wise between different sellers and auction houses. For example, a grade 4 for one company might be a grade 3.5 or 4.5 for another company.
Use the grade to reduce the number of GT-Rs you are looking at and then use the auction check sheet to find out more information. Purchasing a car solely on the grade is asking for trouble.
You will notice that cars are graded with both a letter and a number. The number represents the mechanical condition of the vehicle, while the letter is usually the interior. Sometimes the letter may represent the exterior of the car, but you will often find that this is part of the number grade. Auction houses and exporters will have slight variations in the way they grade their cars and the information they provide, but they are all roughly similar.
How are Japanese Export Cars Graded?
Below we have gone through a basic description of what each grade means:
- Grade 7 to 9 or S– New car that only has delivery miles.
- Grade 6– Same as above but with a few more miles.
- Grade 5– Vehicle is in exceptional condition with low miles.
- Grade 4.5– Overall condition is excellent, but can have up to 100,000 miles on the clock.
- Grade 4– Overall condition is good, but can have low or high miles.
- Grade 3.5– Similar to grade 4, but some work may be needed and they usually have more miles.
- Grade 3– Can be the same condition as grade 3.5, but with more miles. Alternatively, the car may have lower miles but require more work.
- Grade 2– Very poor condition car and may have significant mechanical or exterior issues. Not necessarily a right off, but you would have to be a brave buyer to purchase one of these.
- Grade 1– Are modified in some way (can be extensive or something simple).
- Grade 0, A, R, RA– Some repair history that can be major or minor.
How The Interior and Exterior Grading System Works
As we wrote above, the number grade will usually be accompanied by a letter grade that shows the interior (and sometimes exterior) grade of the car. An ‘A’ shows that the car is in exceptional or good condition, a ‘B’ denotes that the car is in average condition, and a ‘C’ means that the condition is below average.
In addition to the letter grade you will also be given a ‘car map’ with the auction check sheet. This sheet gives you additional information about the car and will show you where any problems are located. We have more information on the car map in our “How to import a car from Japan” guide.
Other Things to Think About
Check Your Own Country’s Importation Laws
It is incredibly important that you check your own country’s importation laws before making a purchase. You do not want to pay for a vehicle and have it shipped halfway across the world to only find that you can’t legally import it.
Different countries have different rules about what cars can or can’t be imported. A common rule is the age of a vehicle, but your country may also have rules around importing modified vehicles as well.
Think About Importing a Nissan GT-R from Other Countries
While we do recommend Japan as your first port of call when it comes to importing a GT-R, remember that there are other options out there. The Nissan GT-R R33 was exported globally, so it may be possible to find a car that is closer to home. However, different regions received slightly different versions of the GT-R and you may also find that there is less information about importing cars from other countries.
Take a Trip to Japan
If you are so inclined, you can always head on over to Japan to get closer to the cars you are looking at. It is always better to view cars directly, but this is not always possible with Japanese auction houses and exporters. Still, Japan is a great place for a holiday and I can highly recommend it.
Concluding This Nissan Skyline GT-R R33 Buyer’s Guide
As with any car purchase, there is a ton of information to take in when looking at buying a Nissan GT-R R33. The R33 GT-R is undoubtedly one of the greatest cars to come out of Japan and will only increase in value.
While it is becoming more and more difficult to find good condition GT-Rs, there are still plenty out there. Always be cautious of modified cars and check that the vehicle has not been in any serious crashes. Overall, the Nissan GT-R R33 is a fairly robust motorcar, but they can be trouble if they have been neglected.
This Nissan Skyline GT-R Buyers Guide is meant to give you an overall idea of what to look for when purchasing one. Buying a Nissan GT-R R33 will be a proud moment and if you do make sure you send the photos to our Nissan Fans Facebook page.