Renault Megane II RS Buyer’s Guide & History

While the first version of the Renault Megane Renault Sport (RS) didn’t exactly set the motoring world alight when it launched in 2004, it soon proved its worth. Renault’s team of crackpot engineers and designers fettled the car, turning it into one of the great hot hatches of the mid-to-late 2000s.

If you had bought one of these cars new, you would have experienced some serious depreciation, but these days things are turning around for the Mk2 Megane RS. Prices have levelled off and now good ones are starting to become real collectors’ items.

In this Renault Megane II RS buyer’s guide we will be looking at everything you need to know about purchasing one of these cars, including any common problems, how to get the best deal and more. We will also look at the history and specifications of the Renault Sport.

How to use this Renault Megane II RS Buyer’s Guide

To begin with we will take a look at the history and specifications of the Megane RS to give you a bit of background information about the car. Following this, we will cover the buyer’s guide section of the article with all the things to watch out for during an inspection and test drive. At the end of this guide, we have more general car buying advice on things like how to get the best deal on a Mk2 Megane RS. Below we have listed some of the names that will be used in this guide:

• Renault Megane II RS
• Renault Megane Mk2 RS (this Megane is the first RS model but based on the second generation/Mk2 car).
• Renault Megane Renault Sport
• First Generation Renault Megane RS
• Renault Megane RS Mk1

The History of the Renault Megane II Renault Sport

The standard Megane II would launch in September 2002 as a 2003 model year. It bore little resemblance to the first generation Megane and drew more inspiration from the Avantime that was styled by Patrick Le Quément.

The first version of the Megane Renault Sport followed fairly rapidly after the standard car, with production beginning in the second half of 2004. Renault manufactured the body shell of the car at their Palencia plant in Spain, while final assembly was conducted at their Dieppe factory in France. Like the standard Megane II, the RS was available in both three and five-door variants.

Under the Hood

Renault’s team of engineers behind the hot Megane settled on a turbocharged 2.0-litre F4RT petrol engine for the car. Power sat at a respectable 222 bhp (165 kW) and 300 Nm (221 lb-ft) of torque at 3,000 rpm, giving the Megane RS some serious punch. If this wasn’t enough, Mexican car magazine, Automóvil Panamericano, tested the power unit in their car and actually found that it produced as much as 247 bhp (184 kW).

Burying your foot in the carpet would have you at 100 km/h (62 mph) in as little as 6.5 seconds, and the Megane II RS would continue pulling until 240 km/h (149 mph).

Ninety percent of the 300 Nm of torque was available as early as 2,000 rpm, while a twin-scroll turbocharger arrangement kept turbo lag to a minimum, especially when rpms where above 2,000. Renault mated the souped-up engine to a six-speed manual transmission.

Other Changes

The power unit wasn’t the only thing to receive some attention, with the front and rear suspension getting some changes to improve handling and reduce torque steer. There were also some slight styling changes such as a deeper, wider front bumper and a small rear spoiler that gave the Megane RS a more aggressive, performance orientated appearance. To help control the extra power, Renault’s engineers equipped the RS with powerful Brembo brakes that were covered with 18-inch alloy wheels.

On the inside there was leather and cloth seats, seat belts with read stitching, a 4x15W RDS radio with CD-MP3 player and 6 speakers, special floor mats, and more.

Hotter Megane Renault Sport

While reception to the Megane RS was generally positive, many in the motoring press wanted a bit more. They felt that the car was a bit soft, and the ride was too gentle for a performance Renault. The French car company responded by releasing the Renault Sport 225 Cup in 2005.

This car included the Cup Chassis option which featured special red front and rear brake calipers, drilled brake discs, a new brake master cylinder with a larger diameter, new 18-inch wheels and revised stiffened steering and suspension. On the inside, Renault gave the car carbon grey interior trim with silver stitching.

With excellent reception to the handling changes, the standard RS was updated with the stiffened setup. One last benefit of the Cup was the slight reduction in weight of 10 kg saving (22 lb) over the normal 225 Renault Sport.

2006 Updates & Renault Megane RS 230 F1 Team

2006 was a big year for the Megane RS. Renault introduced an updated model in July of that year that featured a raft of changes such as tapered headlights, a revised front grille and bumpers, translucent taillights, more safety features, and more.

The Megane RS 230 Renault F1 Team was also introduced in 2006 to commemorate the success of the company’s Formula 1 team and their championship winning driver, Fernando Alonso. It was based on the facelifted version of the car and featured a number of improvements.

Renault bumped the power up to 227 bhp (169 kW) at 5,500 rpm and the torque to 310 Nm (229 lb-ft) at 3,000 rpm. The car was equipped with an improved version of the Cup Chassis package, which incorporated red Brembo front and rear brake calipers, revised suspension and steering, a larger diameter brake master cylinder, 18-inch Anthracite spoked alloy wheels with Michelin Pilot Sport 2 235/40 R18, and a sport exhaust. All Megane RS 230s also featured special Renault F1 decals, a limited slip differential, a new rear spoiler and a numbered plaque that indicated the production number.

Renault Sport Megane dCi 175

Yes, not only did Renault produce a petrol-powered performance version of the Megane II, but they also took a diesel version and turned it into a full-blown hot hatch for those who wanted to travel a bit further between fuel stops.

As you can probably deduce from the name, the diesel Megane RS produced 175 metric horsepower (173 bhp/129 kW). Compared to cars from the likes of VW, SEAT, and Toyota, this was a significant step up that put the dCi 175 in a category of its own. The real star of the show was the amount of torque on hand, with the 2.0-litre diesel engine churning out an impressive 360 Nm (270 lb-ft) of the stuff at 2,000 rpm.

While power was significantly more than other diesel hatches, the 175 was quite a bit slower than the petrol RS. The 0 – 100 km/h (62 mph) time was around 8.3 seconds, nearly a whole two seconds slower than the RS 225.

The engine and performance figures weren’t the only different things. Renault also deleted the rear spoiler to boost fuel economy and changed the spring and damper rates to better match the diesel power unit. Just like the petrol model, the 175 could be purchased with the optional Cup Chassis package.

The Last Hurrah of the Megane II RS

With a new generation Megane on the horizon, Renault produced one final special edition version of the RS. The Renault Sport 230 Renault F1 Team R26.R was based on the 230 F1 Team R26, but with a number of changes and additions that made the car a better performance machine overall.

Renault’s engineers stripped out anything that was deemed unnecessary. The rear seats, passenger and curtain airbags, climate control, soundproofing, radio and CD player, front fog lamps and more were removed in the name of weight saving. All these changes lead to a weight reduction of 123 kg (271 lbs) over the standard R26.

The car was also given a number of new body parts and components such as a carbon fibre bonnet/hood, a polycarbonate tailgate and rear side windows, special carbon fibre and aluminium Sabelt seats with 6-point harnesses, and a new rear spoiler. Buyers could also opt for a titanium exhaust system and a roll cage.

While the engine remained much the same, the suspension, steering and brakes received some attention. New front and rear springs were fitted and the shock absorbers were recalibrated to improve handling performance. Grooved brake discs were fitted as standard and they were covered in new alloy wheels that were unique to the R26.R. The special new rims were wrapped in either Michelin Pilot Sport 2 235/40R18 tyres, or if the buyer so desired, Toyo Proxes R888 225/40R18 tyres.

Only 450 of these extreme Megane II RS models were produced with most of them ending up in the UK market.

The End of the First Generation Megane RS

By the late 2000s, the Megane II RS was starting to show its age and Renault was ready with a new car. Production of the standard Megane III had already began in 2008, with the RS version coming in 2010.

Renault Megane II RS Specifications

Renault Megane II RS Buying Guide

With all that out of the way, let’s have a look at what you need to know when purchasing a first generation Megane RS.

Setting Up an Inspection of a Megane II RS

Below we have listed some things you should think about when setting up an inspection of a Megane Renault Sport.

• Set up the inspection at the seller’s house or place of business if possible – We usually recommend this because it will give you a bit of an idea of how and where the Megane II you are interested in has been stored/parked – does the owner garage their RS or do they park it on the road in the elements? Another reason we recommend you do this is so that you can get an idea of what sort of roads the vehicle is usually driven on. The wheels, tyres, suspension and steering of a Megane II RS do not take kindly to rough roads with lots of potholes.
• View the Megane RS in person or get a reliable third party to do so for you – Buying a used car sight unseen is usually a recipe for disaster. While you may get lucky, it is best practice to view a vehicle in person before purchasing it. If you can’t do this, try to get a reliable third party or friend to do so for you. Note: some websites and auction services check the their cars first, which reduces the risk a lot.
• Take along a friend or helper – Two pairs of eyes and ears are usually better than one when it comes to inspecting a used car. While they don’t necessarily have to be good with cars, it is better if they are. They will also be able to give you their opinion on the Renault Megane II RS you are interested in.
• Arrange an inspection for a time in the morning rather than later in the day – Try to do this if possible as it gives the seller less time to clean up any potential issues such as a big oil leak. Additionally, it will also give them less time to warm up their Megane RS – make sure the engine is cold when you inspect the vehicle and let the seller know that you don’t want it driven prior to your arrival.
• Don’t inspect a used car in the rain – Water on the bodywork and paint can cover up numerous different issues that may have been easy to spot on a sunny, dry day. If it is raining, try to go back for a second viewing before purchasing the car.
• Watch out for freshly washed Meganes – While most sellers will probably wash their Megane RS prior to your arrival, you do have to be careful for the reasons mentioned above. Additionally, some sellers will wash the engine, underside of the car and any other components to hide a leak.
• Ask the seller to move the Renault Megane Mk2 RS outside if it is in a showroom or garage – The lighting in garages and showrooms can often hide issues with the bodywork and/or paint. Direct sunlight will highlight any potential issues.

How Much Should I Pay for a Megane II RS?

This is largely going to depend on a number of factors from the condition of the particular Megane Renault Sport you are interested in, to its mileage and what model it is. The R26.R is undoubtedly the most collectable and desirable of the first generation Megane RS range, so prices for good ones are significantly higher than a normal RS 225.

To work out how much money you should have on hand to buy one of these cars, we recommend that you look up ones for sale on local auction/classifieds, dealer’s and owners club websites. You can then use these prices to work out roughly what you need for a specific model and condition level. Remember, add a bit extra for any unforeseen expenditures once you purchase the car.

Where is the Best Place to Buy a Megane Renault Sport?

While auction/classifieds and dealer websites tend to be the most popular places to look for used cars for sale, we always recommend that you check out any local owners’ clubs. The reason for this is that the people in these sorts of clubs tend to be quite enthusiastic about their cars and usually look after them better. Here are a few examples of ones for the Renault Megane:

Renault Sport Club UK – Club dedicated to all Renault Sport cars including the different versions of the Megane.

RS Megane – Dedicated to just Megane RS models and has quite an active community.

Megane Sport – Much the same as above.

It is also worth checking if you have any social media groups in your area dedicated to the Megane RS or Renaults in general.

Like we mentioned just above, classifieds and dealer websites are also great places to find Megane RSs for sale, however, you may come across a few more dogs.

Is it worth Paying a Mechanic to Inspect a Megane RS Before Purchase?

You don’t have to get a mechanic to check a used car prior to purchase, but it is generally a good idea. A good Renault specialist or mechanic will know what to look for and they can give you a second opinion on the Megane RS you are interested in. They may be able to spot something you missed, which could save you big bucks down the line.

Even if you do not plan to take the car to a mechanic before buying it, we recommend that you ask the seller if you can. If they seem funny or hesitant about it, it could be a sign that they are trying to hide an issue.

Checking the VIN

We always recommend that you have a look at the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) or chassis number. The VIN can tell you quite a bit of information about the Megane II RS you are inspecting, such as the model (F1 team, 225) and more. The VIN on a Megane Renault Sport can be found in the following locations:

• Inside the driver’s door
• Base of the windscreen on the passenger’s side
• Engine bay

If you can’t find the VIN in the correct locations it may be a sign that the vehicle has been in an accident and body panels have been replaced (remember to check that the VINs you find match as well).

Cup or Not?

If the Megane RS you are looking at is being advertised with the Cup package, make sure it actually has it. This can be a bit difficult as it is a bit of a minefield on what is and isn’t a Cup, especially with Meganes produced around 2005. It is made even more confusing by the fact that some cars were equipped with some of the Cup upgrades, but weren’t actually Cup models.

The main things to watch out for are red-brake calipers on post facelift cars (from July 2006), no climate control (just air conditioning on Cup models), “Cup” in the logbook and Anthracite wheels (these can be easily be swapped onto standard 225s remember). Another thing to do is to make sure that the traction control stays off above 48 km/h (30 mph) as on the standard model it turns back on.

The Bembo brake calipers on pre-facelift cars were silver, however, more than a few owners painted them red like on the later Cup cars.

A good owner should have the original receipts and paperwork to prove that the Megane II RS you are looking at is indeed a Cup model. Additionally, contact Renault to see if they can help you determine exactly what model/specification Megane RS you are looking at.

Engine

Despite what people say about Renaults, both the 2.0-litre F4RT petrol and the Nissan diesel engines are reliable if maintained properly (maintained properly being the key point here). So many of these cars have got into the hands of people who can’t afford or be bothered to maintain them properly, so there are more than a few lemons out there.

To start your inspection of the engine, move to the front of the Megane RS and lift the bonnet/hood – does it open nice and smoothly? How does the catch feel? Does the bonnet stay up? If you notice any problems here you are already off to a bad start.

Once the bonnet is open, take a good overall look at the engine bay, keeping an eye out for any obvious problems such as leaking oil, broken or missing components. If the engine bay of the Megane II RS is completely spotless it is probably a sign of a good owner, however, it may also be a sign of somebody who is trying to cover something up (especially if the engine bay is still wet from being washed).

Checking the Fluids

This is often overlooked during a used car inspection but is something that we feel you should always do. The engine oil, coolant and other fluids can tell you quite a bit about the health of a Megane’s engine and how it has been maintained.

Fluid levels that are too high or low, old fluids, and those that are not suitable for the Megane II RS can cause serious damage and wear, and may even lead to total engine or component failure.

When you are checking the engine oil/dipstick, remember to look out for any metallic particles or grit. If you see any it is probably best to move onto another Mk2 RS. Additionally, watch out for any foam on the dipstick as it could indicate a very serious problem (more on that later).

Talk to the seller about the Megane II RS’s service history and don’t forget to check the service history and any accompanying receipts. If the seller can’t or won’t let you see the service and/or receipts, proceed with caution as it suggests that the car has not been maintained properly.

Most owners tend to use a good quality ACEA A3 rated synthetic 5W-40 or 0W-40 engine oil in these cars, however, you may find some owners who use a 0W-30 or 5W-30 in cooler climates/months. The oil and oil filter should have been replaced every 19,000 km (12,000 miles) or every 12 months. Quite a few owners feel that this is a bit too far between changes and like to do it earlier (a sign of somebody who cares about their car).

Checking for Oil Leaks

Like most fairly modern cars, the engine on a Megane II RS is covered by a plastic cover. This cover can hide some oil leaks around the valve/rocker cover. If you can, get the seller to take the plastic engine cover off for you (probably don’t take it off yourself as you don’t want to break the cover).

A slight leak by the sump and on the plastic under tray is a fairly common occurrence. This isn’t a major problem as long as it is a very slow leak (fixing it is pretty simple). The dipstick, oil filter and turbo hoses can sometimes leak oil as well.

We wouldn’t worry too much about very small and slow leaks as most older cars usually leak a little bit of oil – however, you should still get it checked out before purchasing the Megane. If you notice any dripping oil or puddles of oil underneath the Megane II RS we would probably walk away as if it was a simple fix the seller probably would have got it sorted before putting the car on the market.

Make sure you check for oil leaks (and any other leak for that matter) both before and after a test drive, as that spotless engine bay may not be so spotless after a trip around the block.

Talk to the Owner About Oil Consumption

While you probably aren’t going to get a straight answer here (and you are not going to be able to tell during a short test drive), it is still a good question to ask. A good Megane II RS shouldn’t consume much if any oil between changes, so if you get an inkling that the one you are looking at uses a lot of oil be very cautious.

Watch Out for Cars Coming Up to the 116,000 km (72,000 mile)/6 Year Service

This service is vital and needs to be done at or before the recommended service interval, so check with the owner and in the service history to make sure it has been carried out (some owners get it done closer to the 96,000 km / 60,000 mile mark). There is a lot to be done in the 116,000 km service and as such, many owners try to offload there Megane IIs just prior to the wallet wounding experience (and onto unsuspecting buyers).

If this service has not been done, do not purchase the car unless you get a very hefty discount or if you get the seller to do it for you (remember to check any receipts). The following parts should be replaced and checked during this service:

• Oil and oil filter
• Air filter
• Vehicle health Check/diagnostic check
• Brake fluid
• Pollen filter
• Spark plugs
• Timing belt/cambelt and tensioners – diesel cars feature a timing chain so there is no service interval for them
• Auxiliary belt and tensioners – 145,000 km (90,000 miles) for diesel cars
• Camshaft end seals
• Coolant
• Water pump

The F4RT power unit in these cars is an interference engine, so if the timing belt snaps you could be looking at an engine rebuild!

Making Sure the Cooling System is in Good Working Order

The cooling system is vital to the correct function of the engine and if anyone of the components below fail it could lead to overheating and possibly total engine failure.

• Radiator – removes heat from the water/coolant
• Thermostat – sends water/coolant that is hotter than the target temperature to the radiator to be cooled
• Water Pump – belt that is driven from a pulley. Pushes water/coolant through the engine
• Overflow or Expansion tank – removes air from the system and provides a filling point for the coolant
• Coolant Lines – hoses that allow water/coolant to remain contained as it moves through the engine/cooling system

Annoyingly, just like many of the other components in the engine bay, the coolant/expansion tank (on the left side) and lines are covered by a plastic cover. You can see the max and min marks through the hole, but to see the whole tank you will have to remove the black plastic cover (once again, if you want to do this get the seller to do it for you, as while it is easy, you don’t want to go breaking anything when the car is not yours).

If you can get a look at the coolant tank and lines, check for any crusted coolant which may indicate that there is or was a leak.

Make sure you check for coolant leaks both before and after a test drive, along with the coolant level. Once you have conducted a test drive, turn the Megane II RS off and wait for around 10 to 15 minutes. After this, check for any fresh puddles of coolant under the car and do a smell test. If you don’t notice any puddles of coolant, but still smell a sweet aroma, the car could still be leaking coolant.

The radiators are common failure points on these cars, especially where the core meets the plastic end, so if there is a leak it is probably coming from here.

Gurgling sounds are another sign to watch out for that may indicate that a leak is present or that something like the water pump is failing or has failed.

Overheating Renault Megane II RSs

In the section below we have listed some signs that the Renault Sport you are looking at is overheating and/or is suffering from some other sort of issue such as a blown head gasket.

• Temperature gauge on that is on the high side
• Bubbles in the radiator or coolant overflow tank
• White and milky oil
• Spark plugs that are fouled (if you or probably a mechanic can get a look at them)
• Low cooling system integrity
• Smell of coolant from the oil
• Sweet smelling exhaust
• White smoke from the exhaust pipe (especially if you see lots of it)
• Steam from the front of the car

All of the above symptoms are serious issues and if you happen to notice one or more of them you should definitely consider moving on from the vehicle.

Checking the Exhaust on an RS

The standard exhaust fitted to the Megane Mk2 RS is a hard-wearing item and should last quite a long time. If you are looking at an R26.R model see if it has the optional titanium exhaust as these are sought after and add quite a bit of value to the vehicle. Here are some other things to watch out for:

• Corrosion – Shouldn’t really be an issue, but always worth looking out for, especially if the car has been fitted with a cheap mild steel aftermarket exhaust.
• Damage – Watch out for any dings, dents, scrapes etc. Check that the mounts/hangers are in good condition as they are a common failure point – makes the tailpipes wobble all over the place
• Black sooty stains – If you notice these sort of stains it could be a sign that the exhaust is leaking. Fixing it may be simple, but if its really bad a new exhaust may be needed.
• Bodge jobs (bad repairs) – Always be mindful of a quick fix that has been done to bring a vehicle up to a somewhat saleable condition.
• Low rumbling, scraping and rattling noises – May indicate an issue with the exhaust or could be caused by some other problem.

Catalytic Converter Issues

If you notice the following symptoms the catalytic converter may be on its way out (will be quite expensive to fix):

• Smell of sulphur or rotten eggs from the exhaust
• Reduced acceleration and sluggish engine performance
• Excessive heat from underneath the Renault Sport Megane
• Dark smoke from the Megane II RS’s exhaust
• CEL (Check Engine Light)

Some owners will do a decat if the catalytic converter fails, but this means the Megane won’t pass emissions regulations in countries that have them.

Aftermarket Exhausts

Many owners opt to fit aftermarket exhausts from the likes of Miltek, RST system, and Pure Motorsport. Other popular options include Scorpion, Cobra and KTEC exhausts. Most owners will get an aftermarket exhaust fitted to improve the sound of the exhaust, but some may have done it to replace a worn, tired out stock one.

Custom built exhausts are also available. If you are looking at a Megane II RS with one of these, try to find out who made the exhaust and check their reviews.

Switching on a Megane II RS for the First Time

It is a good idea to get the seller or owner to start the Megane Mk2 RS for you for the first time (start it yourself later). We recommend this for the following two reasons:

• So you can see what comes out the back of the Megane’s tailpipes
• If the seller gives it a boot full (revs the car hard) when it is cold you know to pass on the vehicle

When you start the Megane Renault Sport yourself at a later point in the test drive, don’t forget to check that the warning lights come up on the dashboard. If no warning lights appear on start-up, it could be a sign that they have been disconnected to hide an issue. If a warning light stays on, check what the light is for and do not purchase the Megane II until you can find out what is causing the issue.

Cough on Idle

While these cars can sound a little bit rough when started, the lumpiness should quickly disappear. If it does not it may be a sign that one or more of the injectors are on their way out and/or blocked.

Replacing the injectors is quite expensive, so if you are concerned about this problem talk to a Renault specialist in your area to see how much you will be down if you need to get the work done. Alternatively, cleaning the injectors may be all that is required, which is a bit cheaper to do. Check to see when the injectors were last replaced (if ever) as it is a bonus if they were done recently – injectors need to be replaced around the 130,000 km (80,000 mile) mark.

Another thing to do is to rev the car up to around 1,500 – 2,000 rpm and check for any misfiring or any other issues.

What Is the Correct Idle Speed for a Megane II RS?

When you first start the Megane, you should find that the idle speed sits around 1,200 rpm, however, it should drop and settle around the 800 rpm mark (+ or – 50rpm). Turning on the air conditioning will increase the idle speed a bit, so check to see that happens.

Finding the cause of idle issues can be difficult as it could be anything from bad spark plugs, dirty intake components, blocked injectors and much more. If the problem was a simple fix the seller probably would have got it sorted before putting their Renault Megane Mk2 RS on the market. Alternatively, they may not care or may have not noticed.

While on a Test Drive

When you go out on a test drive, wait until the car is up to temperature before giving it some revs. See how the Megane responds under both gentle and hard acceleration. We recommend that you leave the window open so that you can listen better to the sound of the engine and any problems that may be muffled by the cabin sound deadening.

Check Injection Issue

Quite a few owners have experienced an issue where a “Check Injection” warning comes up on the dashboard and the car enters limp mode. This limits the revs (around 2,500 to 4,000 rpm) and makes the vehicle pretty much undrivable. Sometimes switching the Renault off and switching it back on, and/or disconnecting and reconnecting will fix the issue, but it will almost certainly return.

The cause of this issue could be from a loud of different things, but here are some of the most common causes:

• Dirty/blocked injectors
• Sticky DV that leaks pressure and/or vacuum hoses
• Broken plastic clip/vacuum hose that goes over the throttle body – this often happens when the DV pipe is taken on and off. Securing it with a cable tie may fix the issue.
• Faulty boost pressure sensor (sometimes not fitted correctly on the intake) – it is a square black unit that sits halfway through the intake manifold. Some owners like to use a cable tie to secure it and stop it lifting.
• Bad software – this should have been sorted by now but you never know.
• Particulate filter – Diesel only

Some other things may cause the issue, but the above are the most common ones. Do not purchase the Megane II RS without finding out what is causing the problem. It is preferable to get the seller to fix the issue as it can be a bit of a nightmare to find the exact cause (watch out for sellers who do a temporary fix and then get the codes cleared).

Engine Mounts

The left engine mount is particularly prone to sagging, so check that there is not a gap between the rubber and the top of the mount. If the engine mounts are worn you may also notice the following symptoms:

• Clunking, banging, or other impact sounds that are a result of engine movement
• Excessive vibrations
• Engine movement – rev the car and see if the engine moves excessively

Particulate Filter (dci 175) – Diesel Only

Watch out for diesel models that have been nannied. The dci 175 needs to be driven hard on occasions to keep the particulate filter in good working order. If you notice black fumes and/or the “Check Injection” warning message it may be a sign of this issue. If you only plan to do short journeys in a dci 175 it may be a good idea to reconsider purchasing one.

Smoking Renault Megane II RS

As we mentioned early, get the seller or owner to start the Megane RS for you for the first time. Before they start the car, head to the back and if you have a white piece of paper or cloth, hold it up in front of the exhaust. Get the seller to start the car and see how much soot gets on the paper/cloth. If it seems like a lot there may be an issue that needs to be addressed (running too rich, etc.).

A small amount of vapour on engine start-up is perfectly normal and is nothing to worry about, however, if it doesn’t go away during the inspection it is a sign of issues. Walk away from a first generation Megane RS if you notice lots of smoke or vapour. Here are what the different colours of smoke can indicate:

White smoke – Lots of white smoke from a Megane II RS’s exhaust indicates that water has made its way into the cylinders due to a blown/leaking head gasket. Give the exhaust a good whiff and if it smells sweet, it is probably coolant.

Blue/Grey smoke – This colour smoke could be caused by a whole range of things including warn pistons rings, valve seals, turbocharger seals and possibly even a knackered turbo itself. To test for this colour smoke during a drive, get somebody to follow you while you are in the Renault Sport Megane. Take the engine through its rev range and see what comes out the back. If you don’t have a helper, get the owner to drive for a bit while you look out the back.

Black smoke – This sort of smoke is usually a sign that the engine is running too rich and burning too much fuel. There are quite a few things that could be causing this issue from something like dirty intake components to incorrect spark timing and more. If the exhaust smells of fuel, the engine is almost certainly running too rich.

Signs of a Failing Turbocharger

The turbocharger fitted to first generation Megane RSs is known to be fairly robust and reliable, but they can fail, so watch out for the following symptoms:

• Strange rumbling, whistling or high-pitched metallic sounds – when the turbocharger is at full boost (drive at a slow speed and then accelerate moderately up to high rpms).
• Distinctive blue/grey smoke– This happens when the turbocharger housing cracks or if the internal seals become worn. The smoke will become more apparent when the turbocharger is in use, so get somebody to follow you and check while you are test driving a Megane II RS
• Burning lots of oil– It will be hard to get an accurate picture of this during a test drive, but try to glean some information from the owner.
• Slow acceleration– If the Renault Sport you are test driving feels particularly slow it may be a sign that the turbo has failed or is failing. This is why it is important to drive a few different Mk2 RSs, so that you know how fast a particular model should go (be mindful of modified cars).
• If the boost pressure comes on late– Boost pressure that comes at higher than normal rpms could indicate either a worn or unbalanced turbocharger.
• Check Engine Warning Light– The check engine light (CEL) can be displayed for a number of reasons, from major to minor. One of these reasons may be due to a failing/failed turbocharger. If the light is on and you notice some of the other symptoms we have listed above, then it is a good sign that the turbo has failed.

Rebuilt or Replaced Engines on a Megane II RS

There is nothing wrong with a rebuilt or replaced engine as long as the work was carried out by a skilled Renault specialist or mechanic who knows there stuff about the first generation RS. If the RS you are looking at has a rebuilt or replaced engine, try to find out who did the work and check some reviews. If they have poor reviews/feedback it is probably best to move onto another Megane II RS.

We always recommend that you ask the seller/owner why the engine was rebuilt or replaced – was it simply due to mileage? Did the timing belt brake?

It is usually best to avoid fresh rebuilds or engine swaps with only a few hundred miles on them. For example, a Megane with 10,000 km (6,200 miles) on a rebuild or replacement is going to be a much safer bet than one with only a tenth of the mileage.

Is a Compression or Leakdown Test Necessary Before Purchase?

These sorts of tests are not 100% necessary when purchasing a used Renault Megane Mk2 RS, but they can be helpful to determine the health of a specific car’s engine. If you are taking one of these cars to a mechanic or specialist prior to purchase, we recommend that you get them to do a test.

Some owners will get a compression test done before sale and put the results in the advertisement. The most important thing with the results is to make sure that they are all roughly the same (within around 10% of each other).

Engine Modifications

Along with a new aftermarket exhaust and air filter, quite a lot of owners like to get a remap done that boosts power to around 260 hp. This is perfectly fine, but anything beyond this will really start to impact reliability.

Transmission

There are no standout problems with the six-speed manual transmission fitted to these cars, apart from the usual gearbox issues. While the Megane II RS’s transmission wasn’t the most precise when it was new, it shouldn’t feel sloppy. On the other hand, if the movement feels stiff side-to-side in neutral, it may be a sign that a bush in the linkage is past its prime.

Remember to go through all of the gears at both low and high engine speeds, checking for any notchiness, loose shifting, or any strange noises. You may find that the transmission is a bit stiff when cold, but it should loosen up during the test drive.

Synchro wear is a possibility, so check for any graunching or grinding on both upshifts and downshifts. If the synchro issues seem really bad, except to replace or rebuild the transmission in the near future. Higher mileage cars or those that have repeatedly been thrashed are more likely to suffer from synchro wear.

Another thing you can do is to try and find yourself a bit of an incline and see how the transmission and clutch performs with a hill start.

Renault claims that the gearbox and diff oil is a “lifetime” fill, but many owners don’t believe this and change the oil every 4 or 5 years. We tend to believe it is better to change the oil, but it shouldn’t turn you off a Megane II RS if it hasn’t been done.

Checking the Clutch

The clutch isn’t the best, but it should last around 96,000 km (60,000 miles) under normal conditions. It may go further or need to be replaced sooner depending on how it has been treated. A clutch that has had regular fluid changes will last a lot longer. Additionally, keeping the clutch pedal pressed down when not in use (riding the clutch) and other bad driving habits will significantly reduce the life of the clutch. Here are some of the main things to watch out for:

Clutch Engagement – The first step is to make sure the engagement is good. To do this put the Megane RS you are inspecting into gear on a level surface and let the clutch out slowly. It should engage around 7 to 10 cm (2.5 to 4 inches) from the floor. Engagement that is early or too late indicates a problem.

Clutch Slippage – The best way to test for this problem is to shift into a gear that is too high for the speed you are going. You should notice that the engine bogs down a bit (don’t do this on a regular basis). The next thing to do is to accelerate. If you notice that the tachometer goes up out of relation to the speedometer and/or you notice jerkiness it suggests that the clutch is slipping.

Clutch Drag – Get the Renault Sport Megane on a flat surface and press the clutch pedal to the floor (do this while you are stationary). Rev the car hard (once it is warm) and see If it moves. If the car does move, the clutch is not disengaging when you shift and parts will wear prematurely.

Clutch Shudder – This is usually noticeable when you accelerate from a stop. A small amount is perfectly normal, but an excessive amount is a sign that the release bearings need to be lubricated.

If the clutch is up for replacement and you still want to purchase the car, make sure you get yourself a nice discount.

Steering and Suspension

The original 2004 Megane RS 225 models can feel a little bit vague when steering and cornering, but Renault fixed this with later models. If any of the Renault Sport Meganes you drive feel really nervous when corning/steering there is a problem that needs to be investigated.

The front wheel hub bearings are prone to wear, so listen out for any clunking noises or reluctance for the steering to centre itself. Both the hub assembly and labour to fit it are quite expensive, so keep this in mind. Worn bushes are another thing to watch out for as they tend to go around the 96,000 km (60,000 mile) mark.

The clips for the CV boots can often break/go missing. This problem isn’t too bad, but if a CV boot is split and needs to be replaced it can be quite expensive as getting the driveshaft out of a Megane can be quite difficult (fine for an experienced Megane mechanic).

Below we have put together a bit of a checklist for the steering and suspension:

• Dipping and swerving when the brakes are applied
• Excessive Rear-end squat during acceleration
• Tipping during cornering
• High speed instability
• Delayed or longer stopping distances
• Uneven tyre wear
• Excessive bounce after hitting a bump or when pushing down on the suspension
• Leaking fluid on the exterior of the shock/strut
• Sagging or uneven suspension
• Knocking, clunking or creaking sounds during a test drive – usually the front bushings or wheel bearings (as we mentioned above) which can be quite expensive to fix – take the car over some speed bumps
• Rattles – drive over some bumps – there should be no noise from the suspension components (however, you may hear some rattles from something in the cabin).
• Clicking sounds (especially at full lock) – usually a bad CV joint. However, clicking sounds may also indicate something like a bad wheel bearing as well

Remember to visually inspect as many of the suspension and steering components as you can get a look at. A torch/flashlight and a mirror can come in handy here. Check for any cracks, leaks, damage or corrosion. Be mindful that many parts are RS-specific, so regular Megane parts won’t fit and the correct components are a bit more expensive.

If the first generation Megane RS you are looking at has aftermarket suspension make sure you are happy with its ride. Non-stock suspension can sometimes be setup a bit harsh, which can make driving on regular roads a bit uncomfortable.

Don’t Forget to Check the Wheel Alignment

Find yourself a nice flat, straight section of road and test that the Megane RS runs straight with minimal wheel corrections. Bad wheel alignment can lead to excessive/uneven tyre wear (costing you more money) and can even lead to a less safe and enjoyable driving experience. Most of the time a simple realignment is all that is needed, however, in some cases bad wheel alignment can be a sign of serious suspension/steering issues or even accident damage.

Checking the Wheels and Tyres

Have a good look at the wheels and tyres and make sure they are in good condition. Don’t be too surprised to find the odd scratch and scrape on the rims, but if they have lots of curb damage it is a sign that the Megane II RS has been owned by a careless driver.

If the car is fitted with aftermarket wheels, check with the seller to see if they have the originals (ask for a discount if they don’t). Owning the originals will only add value to the Megane II RS if you decide to sell it in the future and the special ones fitted to F1 editions are even more sought after (we also think that the stock rims look great). When it comes to the tyres, check for the following:

• Amount of tread – If there is minimal tread left try to get a discount as you will need to get the tyres replaced in the near future.
• Uneven wear – Wear should be even between the right and left tyres on the Megane Mk2 RS. Additionally, make sure wear is even across the tyre itself.
• Brand – They should be from a good or well-reviewed brand – if they are from a poorly reviewed brand it suggests that the owner has cheaped out on maintenance.
• Same tyre – in terms of tyre make, type and tread pattern on each axle (preferably on all four wheels) – mismatched tyres can lead to poor handling performance and may even be dangerous.

Brakes

While the suspension and steering components shouldn’t cause too many issues, the brakes on a first generation Megane Renault Sport can cause a few issues. Renault fitted very hard pads to the Megane II RS that that provided a more consistent brake feel with little fade, and they also lasted longer. However, the harder brake pads negatively impacted disc life, with replacements needed as early as 32,000 km (20,000 miles) in some cases.

If you notice a shuddering or shaking through the steering wheel of the Megane II RS it may be a sign that the discs are warped. This usually becomes first apparent under high-speed braking and can be a sign that the car has been thrashed.

Remember to test the brakes under both light and hard braking conditions, with some repeated high to low-speed runs being a good idea. The brakes should be more than adequate for road use, so any sponginess is a sign of a problem (may simply need a bleed or there may be a more serious issue).

Listen out for any squealing, rumbling or clunking sounds when the brakes are in use as this could indicate anything from worn/bad pads to disc issues and more.

Make sure the handbrake works as intended and see how it performs on a steep incline (if you can find one).

Seized calipers are a possibility, but don’t seem to be that common. If one or more of the calipers are seized, you may notice the following:

• Megane RS pulls to one side (may even happen when the brakes are not in use)
• Car feels low on power as if the parking/handbrake is on (could also be a sign of diff issues)
• Brakes get extremely hot and produce a distinctive acrid smell and in some cases smoke
• You find that the Renault Sport doesn’t want to move at all
• Loud thud-like noise when pulling away for the first time

Like with the suspension and steering components, remember to visually inspect as many of the brake parts as you can get a look at.  If the pads and discs need to be replaced anytime soon make sure you get a discount on the vehicle or make the seller replace them for you. The brake fluid should have been replaced every 2 years or so.

Body & Exterior

Renault sold both three and five-door variants of the Megane II RS, however, there are far more of the former. The special edition cars were based on the three-door version, so you are out of luck if you wanted a five-door R26.

Fixing body and paint issues can be a headache inducing, wallet wounding experience, so take your time here.

Accident Damage

The first generation Megane RS encourages you to drive fast, so accident damage is probably going to be one of your primary areas of concern during an inspection. More than a few of these cars have been owned by people who have taken them past the limits of traction, so watch out for any crash damage.

Many owners and sellers will lie and try to cover up accident damage. In some cases, people will even claim that their vehicle hasn’t been in an accident when it clearly has. Here are some of the main things to watch out for:

• Misaligned panels or large panel gaps – Check that the bonnet lines up correctly and fits as it should. Additionally, check the bonnet catches as if they look new the car has probably been in an accident. You should also check the doors and the lights for any damage or signs of past damage.
• Doors that drop or don’t close properly – If the doors drop or don’t open/close properly the Megane RS you are inspecting may have been in an accident.
• Inconsistencies such as waving, rippling or different coloured panels – Indicates a respray which may have been conducted as a result of accident damage or rust.
• If the bonnet/hood looks like it is popped when it is not – This may indicate that the Megane Renault Sport you are inspecting at has been crashed into something (even a light knock can cause this problem).
• Damage to the mounting supports for the headlights – This is very difficult to fix if the car has been in an accident, so watch out for this.
• Bent or broken parts underneath the car – Check to see if everything is straight underneath the Renault Megane RS and watch out for any replaced parts. Take a good look at all the suspension, steering and exhaust components for damage.
• Rust in strange locations – Is often a sign of crash damage on a Renault Megane II RS.
• Paint runs or overspray – Could be a factory issue, but more likely due to a respray.
• Missing badges or trim – Could be due to repair work (body shop couldn’t find replacements) or a number of other things (stolen, etc.).

We wouldn’t instantly dismiss a Megane II RS with accident damage unless the crash was obviously very serious and/or the resultant repairs were very poor. Light to moderate damage that was repaired by a skilled panel beater/body shop is often okay, and can usually be used to get a nice discount.

If the owner/seller tries to cover up or lie about the accident it suggests that the problem is worse than first appears. Alternatively, if the owner can’t tell you much about the accident/damage it may have happened when a previous person owner the vehicle.

Is Rust an Issue on Megane IIs?

While rust doesn’t really seem to be too much of an issue on Megane IIs, it is still worth checking for (especially as it may indicate crash damage). Check as much of the body as you can, paying particular attention to the wheel arches and wells, sills, underside of the car, around the tailgate and inside the boot. Keep in mind that if you do find rust it is usually more serious than it appears on the surface.

Factors That Can Make Rust More Likely on a Car

• Vehicle has spent time in countries or areas with salted roads (UK, Parts of North America, etc.)
• Car has spent time in countries or areas with very harsh winters
• Vehicle is often parked/stored by the sea for significant periods of time
• Always kept outside (never garaged)
• Accident damage (stone chips or more significant damage)
• Old or no underseal

Looking for Rust Repairs

It is not only important to look for present rust, but you should also keep an eye out for signs of past rust repair (mismatched paint, paint overspray etc.). Watch out for any areas that may have been resprayed or cut out and replaced. You should also check the service history and with the owner (however, don’t trust what the owner says completely as they may be trying to hide something from you).

Use a magnet on steel sections of the car (cover it with a cloth so you don’t damage the paintwork) or a coating gauge thickness tool such as this one to find any areas that may have been repaired.

Light Issues

Make sure both the front and rear lights are in good condition and are not damaged. Replacing the front headlights can be a bit of a pain if you try to do it from the front. Doing it through the wheel arch us much easier, but can still be a bit of a pain (see this guide here).

Carbon Bonnet – R26.R Models

If you are looking at an R26.R, make sure the carbon fibre bonnet is in good condition. Replacing one of these bonnets is eye wateringly expensive and they are becoming more difficult to find. Check the polycarbonate windows as well as they can easily become scratched when washing.

Interior

There is not too much to say about the interior apart from the usual used car related stuff. The plastics and interior trim wear surprisingly well but they can scratch quite easily.

Unfortunately, the seats (particularly the bolsters) wear quite easily with fabric ones being more of a problem than leather. If you are looking at an R26.R and it has the optional six-point harness fitted, make sure you are happy with it for day to day use (some find it annoying for regular driving). If the seats move during acceleration or braking it is incredibly dangerous and will be an MOT/WOF failure.

If you notice excessive amounts of wear on the seats, steering wheel, carpets, shifter and pedals for the mileage it may be a sign that the Megane II RS has had a particularly hard life.

Make sure you check for any dampness and leaks in the interior. The water drain holes under the wiper mechanism can become blocked with leaves and other detritus, which can lead to soaked carpets. Another problem area is the side door pocket which can fill with water as well. Check the rest of the interior including the boot/trunk as well for any dampness. Drying out the carpets is a real pain in these cars and some owners have even had to carry out a fill interior strip. Another thing to check is the floor mats. If they have water residue on the bottom it may be a sign of a past or present leak.

Remember to have a look at the headlining above the driver’s seat. If it is a slightly different colour it may be a sign that the Megane II RS you are inspecting has been owned by a smoker. A smell test will also help you determine whether or not this is the case as well. The head lining can also sag and drop as well.

Electronics, Air Con, Locks, Etc.

This is where things can get really ugly on these cars. Renault’s electronics can be temperamental to say the least, so take your time going through all the switches, buttons, toggles, etc.

The window regulators are a common failure point with official Renault replacements being quite expensive (cheaper aftermarket ones are available). The tyre pressure monitoring system is another common failure point and don’t forget to check that the radio/sound system works as intended and that the speakers aren’t producing a crackle.

Malfunctioning door locks and key fobs are another thing to watch out for, along with Renault’s keyless ignition system. Remember to check that the lights work correctly and do not flicker.

Don’t forget to check that the air conditioning works as intended and that plenty of cold air comes out of the system. If it doesn’t, don’t let the seller convince you it just needs a re-gas as it may be something like the compressor (expensive fix).

As we mentioned in the engine section, check that the warning lights work during both engine start-up and while the car is running. If no lights appear during start-up the seller may have disconnected them to hide an issue. Lastly, take along an OBDII scanner or take the car to a Renault specialist or dealer to have the codes read as there may be a hidden issue. Watch out for sellers who have cleared codes without fixing or investigating the cause.

General Car Buying Advice the for a Renault Megane II RS

How to Get the Best Deal on a First Gen Megane RS

This information applies to both dealers and private sealers. Knowledge is power and it can save you a lot of money when purchasing a vehicle.

1. Research heavily – Prior to starting your search for a Renault Sport Megane, figure out what specs and condition you are happy with. Do you want a low mileage R26.R or are you looking for a 225 and don’t mind a few more miles.
2. Shop around – It is always best to shop around a bit before you make a purchase. There are loads of different Megane RSs out there in different levels of condition and mileage, so don’t limit yourself to one seller, dealer, area or auction platform.
3. Go look at and test drive multiple Megane Renault Sports – It is a good idea to test drive a many cars as possible, so you know what makes a good and what makes a bad Renault Megane II RS.
4. Adjust your attitude – Never rush into a purchase. If you are desperate to buy a car you are more likely to get ripped off. Take your time when looking for a Megane Mk2 RS for sale and only go for promising looking cars.
5. Use any issues with the car to your advantage – Take a mental note of any issues you find with the vehicle. When it comes to discussing the price, use these problems to try and drive down the price. For example, if the car needs new tyres or brake pads make a point of it and try to get the seller to reduce the price.
6. Don’t trust the owner – While some owners/sellers are honest about their cars, many will lie to get a quick sale. Take in what the owner has to say but back it up with a thorough inspection.
7. Go between sellers/dealers – If you are looking at multiple cars, let the owner/seller know. This way they will know that you have other options and they may try to undercut the price.
8. Be prepared to walk away – If you are not happy with the deal, simply walk away. You may miss out on the car or the seller may get back to you with a better offer.

Mileage vs Condition 

Mileage vs condition is always a hot topic for debate, but we feel that it is always better to buy on condition and then on mileage. Lots of owners make the mistake of believing that they are preserving their car by not driving it. In reality, this is completely false and not driving a vehicle can actually do more damage than good.

Short distance trips do not allow the engine to warm up properly, which can lead to increased component wear and reduced engine life.

Rubber seals and plastic parts will fail regardless of mileage and can even deteriorate quicker on cars that don’t get used often. Letting a car sit will not prevent rust or stop the electronics from failing.

Service History and Other Documentation

It is incredibly important to check any vehicle’s service history and any additional paperwork that goes along with it. While the servicing doesn’t need to be done at a dealer, it should be carried out by a competent Renault/Megane specialist or mechanic (especially for major repair work).

The service history will give you a good idea of how the Megane II RS you are inspecting has been maintained. In addition to this, receipts and paperwork for modifications (if the car has any) can help you determine whether they have been done by an experienced tuner or a bad one.

If the owner can’t or won’t let you see the service history, you should probably pass on the vehicle. A complete service history will only add value to any vehicle your purchase and will make it easier to sell the car in the future.

Additionally, you can check websites such as CarFax (USA) and CarJam (NZ) for more information about the car you are thinking of purchasing. These sort of websites can be incredibly useful, but there is usually a cost associated with them.

Questions That You Should Ask the Seller/Owner 

• How often do you drive the car?
• When was the last service and who was it serviced by?
• How much oil does it use?
• What oil do you use in the car?
• What parts have been replaced (timing belt, etc.)?
• When were the coils, spark plugs, leads changed?
• What’s the compression like?
• What modifications have been made to the vehicle?
• Has the vehicle overheated at any point or has the head gasket failed?
• Has the car been in any major or minor accidents? Is so, what repairs were made?
• Is there any money owing on the car?
• Have you got any information on the previous owners and how they treated the vehicle?
• How are the speakers
• Is there any rust?
• Has rust been removed at any point?
• When were the brake pads replaced and have the calipers seized at any point in time?
• Where do you store/park the car usually?

There are loads more questions you can ask the seller, but we feel these are some of the most important.

Things That Would Make Us Walk Away from a RS Megane

Here are some things that would make as walk away from one of these cars. While you may be happy with a vehicle with these problems, we are not.

• Overheating problems or blown head gasket
• Significant Crash Damage
• Money owing on the car
• Stanced
• Modifications with no paperwork or carried out by a poorly reviewed tuner
• Excessive amounts of power
• Bad compression
• Bad resprays
• Significant rust problems
• Engine swaps with non-standard engines
• Significant track use
• Major engine or transmission issues
• Owner who is not forthcoming with information (could be trying to hide something)
• Turbo issues

Notes on the Owner 

The owner is one of the most important things to think about when viewing any vehicle. You need to ask them plenty of questions when inspecting their Renault II RS (however, don’t trust their answers completely). Remember, it is your problem if you wind up buying an absolute lemon. Here are some things to watch out for.

• How long have they owned the vehicle? If it is less than 6 months it tends to suggest that the car needs major work done to it that they can’t afford. It also could be a sign that they deal cars as well.
• Do they thrash the car when it is cold or continually launch the vehicle? If so, you are better to walk away.
• Why are they selling the vehicle? Could be a genuine reason or they may be trying to offload their problem onto an unsuspecting buyer.
• What sort of area do they live in? Is it a good area or a complete dump?
• How do they respond when you ask them simple questions?
• Do they know anything about the Megane II RS and the model they are selling.
• What can they tell you about previous owners?
• Do they have lots of cars on their drive? If they do it may mean they are a dealer.
• What is their reaction when you ask them about money owing on the car? Tell them you are going to do a check and see how they respond.
• What is their reaction to you asking for details for HPi check?
• How do they react if you ask to do a compression test on the vehicle?
• How do they respond when you ask them to show you the service history and paperwork for the car?

If you get a bad feeling about the owner, you are better off moving onto another Renault Megane II RS.